Sunday, June 26, 2022

Stepwells near Vadodara : Let's make our Vav 'Wow'

 

Stepwells near Vadodara: Let's make our Vav 'Wow'

Hello all,

                                        

            So after a few blogs of trekking outside Gujarat, we are now back to our beloved city, Vadodara, and its places. Schools have started with the overhanging sword of projects and unit tests (though it mainly affects moms only, rather than kids and fathers). Sorry, all dads no offense but you know how stressful we moms can be. 

           And this is the only reason we need breaks. Not big but small breaks on weekends. We don't need a luxurious spa or shopping in grand malls. We just need some peace and some quiet from all mayhem.  

          But before this let me go back to the year 2018. I was standing there... I have seen it in the movie, and it fascinated me completely. When I watched it in the movie PK and Sultan, I thought what an architectural gem this is. But when you visit it in reality you will be baffled, as I was. Yes, I am talking about Ugrasen ki Baoli in New Delhi. 



           Recessed arches on either side and a huge central arch in the front, which is connected with the well below...It is an ornament of our Indian architecture. Though you get the eerie feeling at the bottom with bats lurking on your heads, the excitement tops all creepy feelings. And how can we forget an ostentatious Chand Baori. (it is in our bucket list), which has attracted Hollywood directors also? Why just these baolis, all stepwells were the main part of our country with a history back in 300 CE and now most of them are in the ramshackle state apart from a few major and huge ones. 

          India is not just a country of temples, forts, and tombs, it is the country of stepwells too. Right now there are appx 2000 stepwells are there in India (and appx 500 are in our Gujarat), most of them are ancient ones because, after British rule, the use of stepwells declined as they thought them to be unhygienic and unsanitary. But before that stepwells were one of the main components of our water harvesting system. Why just water, most of the stepwells also have temples within and it was the main place for women to come together and relax for a while, it was a place for their  'kitty party'. 

         And now we feel disheartened seeing these treasures, completely abandoned by us and by the government. The same is the state with our city's stepwells.  We visited   two stepwells this weekend:

Sevasi Stepwell

                            

           This stepwell is in one of the most advancing areas of our city. Just at the entrance of the Sevasi village, you might not even notice this stepwell as we are oblivious to this type of beauty. Our ignorant selves have made us blind to look deep into nature and our surroundings. This is also the reason why these treasures are in derelict conditions. 

                      

                             

         Thanks to the people of the Sevasi village the stepwell is clean. But it needs restoration as soon as possible. This vav is also called 'Vidhyadhar vav', as it was built in memory of spiritual leader Vidhyadhar. 

                            

                                  

            The gate of the stepwell is distinct with beautiful carvings of tiger and elephant. The gate is covered with a beautiful dome just like the domes you can see in Champaner monuments. But when you step inside the gate the most amazing feature you will notice is the telescoping pillars inviting you in to this subterranean wonderland. The pillars are carved with flowers, garlands, toran, and animals. The vav is seven storeyed structure with your every step giving you a sense of amazement. 

                             

                                              

                            

           At the 63rd step, there is a big platform with Trishul in the center.  The sieved morning sun rays from the pillars, cool air at the bottom of the stepwell, and peace despite its location just beside the main road,  these are your allurements to visit this place. 

                                                         

                    

          The vav is made up of bricks and stone pillars. The plaster of the wall is peeling off and a few of the pillars are also not in good condition. At the far end of the vav, there is one dome and behind that, there is a huge deep well that is now filled with soil. There are two alleyways on either side connected with bridges of the pillars. 

                         

         So friends while going to Sindhrot or Decathlon, just spare a few minutes or hours and visit our jewel and spread the word. 

Hinglot stepwell:

                         

         This stepwell is the classical example of our neglect and our ignorance. We do not cherish or respect our heritage and we do not value it. 

                   

                          

        This three-storeyed stepwell is located just outside Hinglot village on the way to Sindhrot. The most prominent feature you will notice here is symmetric arches. Do you ever wonder why symmetry is so much important in architecture? Because it gives us a sense of balance and balance always provides comfort and trust. It gives satisfaction to the mind and soul. You will find this balance, this symmetry in almost all stepwells. But beyond these amazingly balanced arches when your eyes move downwards all you can see is rubbish and garbage. Why? Why do we do this? Where is our sense of responsibility and liability? Where is our guilt? 

                           

                           

        It's high time, we cherish these treasures now and make these endangered monuments our priority. Our heritage is imploring us...Let's make India not only the country of temples and tombs but also a rich legacy of stepwells. And this is of utmost importance now rather than later in the era of water scarcity, as these stepwells can be used as one of the major sources of water with proper sanity measures. 

       "We do not choose our obsessions; they choose us, and I could never have predicted that stepwells would commandeer such a large slice of my life. All it took was one look over a modest stone wall on my first trip to India more than 30 years ago, and the ground disappeared. In its place was a man-made canyon with a complex parade of steps, columns, and platforms leading into the earth to an unfathomable depth. It was utterly disorientating. I had no idea what I was seeing, but it subverted the experience of architecture as something we look up at, not down into. "

        This is the passage from the book by Chicago journalist, Victoria Lautman "The Vanishing Stepwells of India", who has visited more than 200 stepwells in India and has documented them in the book. Her every word is true. Most of the stepwells in India are abandoned monuments. These stepwells are a unique part of our culture and our heritage. Let's just not keep them as dilapidated ghost buildings...


See you next week.

With a new story, new Gyan, and new Bhashan. 

Location of sevasi stepwell:https://goo.gl/maps/AR5EWTJ4QRB2uJ2u9

Location of Hinglot stepwell: https://goo.gl/maps/ZsoFHKphtQMBfxFR9


8 comments:

  1. So sturdy and well designed . Awsome pics too.

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  2. Thanks for sharing such a nice information which increases my knowledge about such hidden places or say beautiful architectural work. Please continue to share. I thank you once again. Padmakant Dwivedi

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  3. Sure to visit ....

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    Replies
    1. Yes please do. You will love it.

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    2. Nice work you are doing Kajal , nice pics with rich Indian culture,so disheartening but true

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    3. so true... and thank you so much.

      Delete

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